As you can see from the photos below the seals on mine were leaking quite badly from both sides. Depending how badly the seals have been leaking now might be the time to give the transmission underside a blast with the powerwasher and degreaser. The purpose of this is it makes the job a lot less messy and enables you to check for leaks once the job is complete. Now follow my tutorial on how to remove the transmission oil, you will also need to refer to this when it comes to refilling the transmission once you've replaced the seals. With the oil drained it's now time to remove drive axles where they meet the transmission. To release the drive axle you need to undo 8 x 8mm spline screws. Make sure the spline bit goes in straight and not at an angle otherwise you risk rounding off the spline bit and probably the screw too.
If you find it difficult to get a good angle on some of them then simply release the handbrake and rotate the wheel to improve the access. With the spline screws removed you should now be able to move one end of the axle. Find a suitable place to hang the drive axle out of the way and cover the end with a plastic bag (this stops any grit getting stuck to grease in the universal joint). The next step involves removing the flanged shaft. Start by poking an old screwdriver all the way through one of the empty spline screw holes, this stops the flange from moving when you release the 8mm hex screw from it's centre. Use a socket wrench with extension bar and 8mm hex bit to undo the centre screw as shown below. Once the screw is removed the flanged axle should simply slide out. Give it a good clean and check there's no wear or rough areas on the axle near the flanged end. Now we can see the large black coloured seal we are going to remove.
I used a small heeled pry bar (or you can use a seal puller or other hooked instrument) to gently work around the seal and ease it out. Be careful when doing so as the blind side of the seal that you can't see contains and elasticated spring and it's easy to leave this behind in the transmission. Keep at it and the seal will eventually come out. Once removed it's a good idea to thoroughly clean the area so that no grit or muck enters the transmission when you come to install the new seal. You are now ready to install the new seal. Before you do so, take note of the small raised lip (see arrow below) that the new seal must press up against inside the seal hole. Now take a small amount of white spirit and lightly rub some of it around the outer edge of the black seal (this aids fitting and will shortly evaporate). Now press the seal squarely into the hole making sure the spring is facing in towards the transmissions internals. Now take a 38-40mm socket and a rubber mallet and gently tap the seal into place making sure it doesn't skew as you knock it in. Use your fingers every now and again to feel around the inside of the seal to see when it is fully pressed up against the lip on the inside. Photo below shows a 38mm socket compared to the size of the seal. And photo below shows the seal correctly fitted. Now you can re-install the flanged axle and re-attach the drive axle shaft. You may also want to take this opportunity to refresh the grease in the CV joint at the end of the drive axle before reattachment.
You might think that it was the chassis engineers that dictated it, but the 992鈥檚 a widebody for different reasons, key among them being the cooling. The 992鈥檚 3.0-litre twin turbo flat-six has to pass ever-tighter laws for economy and emissions, and an efficient turbo engine is a cool one. That defines not just the physicality of the 911鈥檚 shape, but the large cooling intakes fed by active vanes at the 992鈥檚 nose. Here, now, in natural light and in the pitlane of the Hockenheimring, I have to say it looks good. It鈥檚 unmistakably 911, as it should be, design boss Mauer鈥檚 team having dipped into the 911鈥檚 past to bring it forward. From the cut-out recess on the bonnet to the SC-aping font for the rear 911 badging, via the large headlights sitting upright (cut exclusively out of the wings rather than puncturing the bumper), there鈥檚 no mistaking its lineage. Once inside, this is clearly a 911 for a new era.
The quality takes a leap, the build feeling substantial, the materials, too. It鈥檚 an attractive cabin, the centre dash coming with a near 11-inch screen containing all the info and entertainment functions. It鈥檚 a touchscreen, adding connectivity and configurability to your nav and entertainment that you probably never knew you wanted or, arguably, needed. Choose the Sport Chrono and you鈥檒l be able to select the driving modes via the Mode switch on the steering wheel, that alone worth the option price. Underneath the PCM sit five toggle switches. The first two are programmable here (or being Wet or Sport modes if you鈥檝e not optioned Sport Chrono) the remaining three being the hazards, PSM and, in this car, PDCC. Attached to the wheel are the paddle-shifters, which is the only means of manually shifting the PDK. The small gear selector on the neat centre console only offers Park, Neutral and Drive, denying those drivers who like to use the PDK stick to go up and down the 鈥榖ox the opportunity to do so.